|
|
Changing Brake Rotors and Pads
Text by Vince and Alex
Photo by Alex
Required tools:
- 1. Torque wrenches: 12 – 85 ft.lb
- 2. 9 to 17 mm sockets
- 3. 8 and 11 mm hex bits
- 4. Large flat head screwdriver or needle nose pryer
- 5. C-clamp(5")
- 6. One floor jack, one jack stand and two wooden blocks
- 7. Turkey blaster (for removing brake fluid from the reservoir)
- 8. Liquid Wrench
- 9. Copper anti-seize lubricant
- 10. Brake paste/anti-squeal compound
- 11. Lithium grease
- 12. Non-toxic industrial solvent (eg. rubbing alcohol)
- 13. Tread locking compound (optional)
Steps:
1. Jack the car up at the appropriate jack points and remove the wheel. Spray some Liquid Wrench on the hub area and the set screw.
2. Remove the metal retaining clip on the front side of the caliper by pressing it away from the hub, then ply off with a screwdriver/pliers.
3. Detach the brake pad wear sensor from the brake pad with long needle nose pliers. Be very careful, they are fairly easy to damage.
4. Remove the 2 small black plastic caps that cover the slider bolt rubber bushings from the backside of the brake caliper. Unscrew the two caliper slider bolts with an 11 mm hex bit.
5. Loosen the caliper from the rotor by rattling and/or tapping the caliper with a hammer lightly. Pull the caliper away from the car to push the brake piston and brake pad away from the rotor if necessary.
6. Do not let the caliper hanging by the brake line. Support the loosen caliper on a cardboard box and take the old pads off.
7. Take the caliper carrier bracket off by loosening the other two bolts at the backside of the bracket.
8. Lossen the set screw of the rotor with 8 mm hex bit and take the rotor off. For front wheel: by putting two wheel lug bolts opposite to the set screw and place a crowbar as shown in the picture to prevent the rotor from rotating. Remove the set screw. For rear wheel: since the wheel is not free rotating (put hand brakes on), no craw bar is needed.
9. If the rotor is stuck, hit the flat surface of the "hat" of the rotor with a hammer, hit hard if necessary. To prevent the rotor from accidentally falling off the wheel bearing/hub, leave the set screw on but loosen about 3 turns. Clean the hub area with a wire brush.
10. Apply copper antiseize compound on the hub to prevent rust from forming between the hub and the rotor.
11. Rub the new rotor with some any non-toxic industrial solvent (eg. rubbing alcohol) to remove the protective film.
12. Put the new rotor onto the hub and tighten the set screw to 14 lb.ft. For front wheel: by putting 2 wheel lug bolts opposite to the set screw and place a crowbar as shown in the picture to prevent the rotor from rotating. For rear wheel: since the wheel is not free rotating (put hand brake on), this is not necessary.
13. Remove some fluid from the brake reservoir if the brake reservoir is toped up because pressing the brake slave piston pushes fluid back into the reservoir. Clean the caliper with the wire brush before putting the new pads on.
14. Press the brake slave piston back with a C-clamp. If needed, use a piece of tin to spread the pressure across the entire piston.
15. Apply the brake paste/lubricant to where the brake slave piston is in contact with the brake pad. Reattach the inside brake pad to the caliper.
16. Apply more brake paste/lubricant to the caliper where the brake pads come into contact with to avoid rattling noise if necessary.
17. Apply some lock-tight (optional) to the bracket bolts and screw them back on (Front - 80 ft.lb. Rear - 45 ft.lb.)
18. Apply some brake paste/lubricant to the front side of the caliper bracket and the front side brake pad ears.
19. Spray the two caliper slider bolts with high temperature resistant lubricant (eg. white lithium grease) and reinstall caliper. Tighten these bolts to 24 lb.ft. Put black plastic caps back on the rubber bushings.
20. Remember to put your brake sensor back if there is one. The nub should be facing the rotor.
21. Bolt your wheel back on and torque to 85 ft.lb. for the track, 72 ft. lb. for street driving. Pump the pedal several times and go out for a SLOW test spin. Follow bedding instructions for the new brake pads or/and rotors.
Tightening torque summary:
| wheel lug bolts |
72 ft.lb. (street) or 85 ft.lb. (track) |
| caliper slider bolts |
24 ft.lb. |
| caliper carrier/bracket bolts: |
80 ft.lb. (front) and 45 ft.lb. (rear) |
| rotor set screw |
14 ft.lb. |
Feedback? Please rate this article
|
|
